Mausoleum of Mirza Muqim Abul Mansur Khan (Safdarjung)

So who was Safdarjung? And why does he lord over the best real estate in town?

Residents of Delhi, even those not terribly interested in history, are likely to be aware of the Safdarjung Tomb. Not because it is a particularly grand tomb, as mausoleum go, but perhaps because it…

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The small village of Losar at dusk.

Cycling the Spiti valley – Nako to Manali

The hardest part about Spiti is reaching there. It took us a 22-hour bus ride to get to Rekong Peo. For the sake of acclimatization we had planned the night stay at Kalpa, which is not so far from…

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Buffaloes on zebra crossings – The Gurgaon story

Our documentary film was first shown as part of an exhibition & seminar ‘What makes India urban?’ at AEDES Am Pfefferberg, Berlin, a gallery that focuses on architecture. In less than two…

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Hiking in the Spiti valley

In June I traveled almost the entire length of the Spiti valley in the 'European backpacker' style. Using local buses (non-a/c with non-reclining seats), hitching rides, and hiking-- from village to…

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Going to Ziro!

Ziro is a quaint name for an unknown town hidden in the undergrowth of the deep jungles of Arunachal Pradesh -- a state that is itself tucked away in the north-east of the country and is clearly not…

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Dispatches from the border – III

I had heard about the 25-foot Shivling, even before I had reached Ziro. With the Amarnath story still fresh in my mind this appeared too tempting to be passed without an investigation. While little…

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